Yep, Sarge, I did sell the Wadkin in the US. Sarge.jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" . BTW, did you end up selling the Wadkins before you returned or did you ship it over? Just curious. Furniture&Cabinet-Making should be on the stands soon. I'm just glad I was in one of those groups and came away wiser. As soon as you think you have the word out, a new group shows up to take the place of the graduates. There always seems to be a new audience though. Your comment to Scrit was "on target" about opening up something that has been covered time and time again. Apologies not necessary as hopefully a few might have learned something here. You seem to be "world-class" at opening malt beverages. ha.Īs far as you not being good at opening things, I dis-agree. Next thing you know you'll be apoligizing to the chap you put on his *ss during a rugby match. This teaching thing seems to be honing the jagged edge. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!ĭan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc. Using a feather board with a hold down mounted on top of it is highly recommended. You are now able to rip wood into 1.5" strips (width of cover to the blade + width of push block hook). Move it over so that there is no less than one inch from the blade to the cover (on fence side). On most commercial over arm guards, the blade shroud can telescope left to right. You are now ready to cut some wood! Use a ruler to measure the distance from the blade to the aux. Use a paste wax to slick up the bottom of the push block and other plywood rubbing surfaces. Mount some sort of handle to the top of the block (a block of wood or even a large dowel in a block will work), locating it as close to center as possible while still being able to clear the clamps on the fence. On the side of the left rear corner screw a piece of scrap (1/2" x 1.5" x 1"). The push block should be made out of 1/2" plywood - 6" x 9". Be sure that it is secure - best to use two clamps. This auxillary fence should then be clamped to the stock fence so that it extends two inches past the blade's center point. Screw the table saw height piece to the long edge of the other creating a right angle. One piece is 3/4" x 6" x 24", and the second is 3/4" x (the height of your table saw's stock fence) x 24". The L-fence can be constructed from two pieces of plywood or melamine. To rip narrow stock with the over arm guard protectively in place, you will need to fabricate an auxiliary L-shaped fence and a modified push block. In that shop hand outlines with fingers missing were painted in red on the saw tables to keep us thinking safety. He said "Don't use the saw again until I have spent a few hours with you". The boss had been watching me and when the kickback started he had kicked the board up and out of my hands. I recall the beginnings of my tablesaw experience when a piece of plywood began to kickback and then suddenly flew up into the air and away from the saw. I just had to push the wood through - couldn't even see the blade, and just about impossible to cut myself. The boss had made a guard/featherboard that clamped across the table from the right side and attached to the fence. I spent weeks cutting 1/4 inch strips of yellow cedar and black walnut - millions of feet. My learning days in woodworking were during college summers employed in a wood shop where fortunately for me the owner was very safety concious and had a good training and safety program. Standard guards don't suit cutting thin strips but it's not difficult to make a guard/featherboard to make cutting strips safe.
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